We all know that vitamin C is good for us. Vitamin C prevents scurvy (a disease with bleeding gums and poor wound healing) it is a powerful antioxidant that helps to strengthen the body’s natural defenses[i], it helps encourage the production of white blood cells known as lymphocytes and phagocytes, which help protect the body against infection [ii] and studies suggest that oxidative stress and inflammation near the brain, spine, and nerves (altogether known as the central nervous system) can increase the risk of dementia[iii]. Oxidative stress is a big no-no for the body as well as the skin and antioxidants such as vitamin C can help, both when taken orally and applied topically to the skin.
Topically applied antioxidants such as vitamin C, exert their benefits by offering protection from damaging free radicals produced when skin is exposed to ultraviolet light, ozone, cigarette smoke, a nutrient poor diet and pollutants.[iv] Chronic UV sun exposure leads to clinical changes in the skin such as laxity/tone, roughness, dryness, sallowness/yellowing, pigmentation, telangiectasia (small red blood vessels), loss of collagen and wrinkles[v]. Vitamin C applied topically to the skin can lighten dark spots (called hyperpigmentation) as well as protect against UV damage, skin cancer and photo aging. Ascorbic acid has been shown to influence production of collagen as well.[vi] But the type of Vitamin C serum you purchase, as well as how you use it, and store it can significantly affect how much benefit you actually get from it.
1) Use Vitamin C Serum in the morning. While there’s no law against using Vitamin C serums in the evening, you may get the most benefit from them when applied in the morning. Vitamin C becomes less effective when exposed to sunlight so give it some time to absorb into the skin and use a mineral based sunscreen before going outside.
2) Use Your Vitamin C Serum At The Right Time in Your Skincare Routine. The best time to apply your Vitamin C serum is right after washing, on a clean dry face. If you are using other serums, they go on after or top of the Vitamin C. Moisturiser follows then your sunscreen, then any makeup if you choose to wear it.
3) Use The Right Concentration of Vitamin C For Your Skin Type and Concerns. There are a variety of concentrations of Vitamin C serums on the market from 5% to 30%. Different concentrations can have different effects. Those with sensitive skin may want to start with the lower 5% concentration which tends to be less irritating. Gradually try to work your way up to a higher percentage, as your skin acclimatises but research shows the effects begin to plateau above 20% so there is no need to go higher than that. Those with oily skin, more textural issues and more pigmentation should use higher concentrations.
4) Don’t Use Vitamin C Serum With Certain Other Ingredients. Vitamin C is generally pretty safe and well tolerated, but if you have sensitive skin, it might sting a little bit—especially if you use it in the same part of your routine as exfoliating scrubs or acids. The one ingredient you should steer clear of when using vitamin C is benzoyl peroxide, which can oxidize the vitamin C and, therefore, make it less potent. You can still use your benzoyl peroxide products, just not in the same part of your routine as the vitamin C. Try using vitamin C in the morning and benzoyl peroxide in the evenings, or use them on different days. Also do not layer Vitamin C serum with Retinol containing products. More next!
5) You Can Use Vitamin C Products With Retinol But Be Cautious! In the past it was thought that you should avoid using vitamin C products with retinoids at all costs. And that is still sort of true. They work best in different skin environments, so using them at the same time may make both less effective. And because they can have similar effects on the skin, experts do still advise against using these two ingredients together at the same time. Using them in the same part of your routine can cause irritation, but it’s okay to use them on the same day at different times. I generally advise using vitamin C products in the morning and retinoids at night. Using both eventually, at different times of the day is the goal as both can benefit the skin dramatically!
6) Make Sure To Store Your Vitamin C Serum Correctly. In topical skin-care products, vitamin C is sensitive to light and air. When exposed to these factors, it becomes oxidized to a less stable and less effective form. So these products should be stored in opaque containers that are either air-restrictive or air-tight, like an airless pump rather than a tub or dropper bottle that requires being opened all the way. If yours is in a dropper bottle, then keep it stored in a dark, cool place away from sunlight and heat.
7) Look At The Overall Formulation Of Your Product. There are different forms of Vitamin C available for different skin concerns. L-ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbyl phosphate are water-soluble, meaning they’re more likely to show up in products that are lighter and better suited to oily skin. If you have dry, mature skin, you may want more moisturizing products containing lipid-soluble forms of vitamin C, like ascorbyl palmitate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. However, most products are well formulated and mixed with other antioxidants like Vitamin E, ferulic acid and hyaluronic acid. My preference for all skin types is L-ascorbic acid as it is the industry gold standard with the most research behind it.
8) Has Your Product Changed Colour? Your vitamin C serum should be colourless or a light straw colour. If it is oxidized, it becomes yellow or brown and is likely going to be less effective. You can still use it if you want, but it won’t do as much for your skin. Consider getting rid of any vitamin C products that have dramatically changed colour since you bought them. Especially if it is brown, I would say to toss it.
One of my favourite Vitamin C Serum’s is EverActive C&E™ + Peptide by Alumier MD. It has a unique delivery system that ensures the 15% vitamin C complex is always optimally active. The vitamin C crystals are kept separate in a unique cap and only mixed into the bottle of serum when you are ready to use it. The brown dropper bottle helps keep the Vitamin C from UV light exposure and it is the clinically most effective L-ascorbic acid form. This formula also has Vitamin E and MATRIXYL® Synthe'6®, a peptide naturally found in collagen and laminins. MATRIXYL® Synthe'6® strengthens skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. I have seen patient’s skin improve dramatically in two weeks of daily use. This product is a must in all women’s skincare regimes. (Available to purchase at The Village Skin and Body Clinic)
